Sigara Böreği: Cigar-Shaped Cheese Pastries

Sigara böreği — "cigarette pastry" — gets its name from the shape, not the colour. They're slim crispy rolls of yufka (a thin Turkish flatbread similar to phyllo) wrapped around a simple feta-and-herb filling, then fried until golden. They're served as part of the meze plate at almost every Turkish restaurant in the world.

They take 30 minutes to make, can be assembled hours in advance, and are spectacularly satisfying. Once you've made them once, you'll make them often.

They disappear faster than you'd believe. Make more than you think you need.

Ingredients (makes about 20)

Filling

• 250g feta or beyaz peynir, crumbled
• 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)
• 1 small bunch fresh dill, finely chopped (about 2 tablespoons)
• 1 egg yolk
• Black pepper, generous grinding

Pastry

• 10 sheets yufka or large spring roll wrappers (if you can't find yufka, brick pastry or phyllo work — phyllo is more delicate, brick is closer)

Sealing

• 1 egg white, whisked

For frying

• About 500ml neutral oil (sunflower, canola, or vegetable)

Method

1. Make the filling. In a bowl, combine the crumbled feta, parsley, dill, egg yolk, and black pepper. Mash with a fork until the mixture comes together but isn't a paste — you want some texture.

2. Prepare the wrappers. Cut each sheet of yufka into 4 triangles (cut the round into quarters). You'll end up with 40 triangles, but you'll only use about 20 — the rest are spares for mistakes.

3. Fill. Lay a triangle flat with the longest edge facing you. Place a tablespoon of filling along the long edge, leaving 2cm clear at each end. Don't overfill — too much filling will burst during frying.

4. Roll. Fold the two sides inward over the filling. Brush the pointed top of the triangle with egg white. Roll up firmly, away from you, finishing at the brushed point so it seals. The finished roll should be about 12cm long and 1.5cm thick.

5. Repeat. Roll all the remaining triangles. They can be made up to 4 hours in advance — cover with a damp cloth in the fridge.

6. Heat the oil. Pour oil into a deep heavy pan to a depth of about 4cm. Heat to 175°C (350°F). If you don't have a thermometer, a small piece of bread should brown in about 30 seconds.

7. Fry in batches. Fry the rolls in batches of 5–6 at a time. Turn them frequently with tongs so they brown evenly. Each batch takes about 2–3 minutes — they should be deep golden brown all over.

8. Drain. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Let drain for 1 minute.

9. Serve. Stack on a serving platter. Eat hot.

What to look for

• Deep golden colour, evenly browned
• A crisp, audible crunch when you bite
• The filling is just melted, hot but not running out
• No greasy residue on the napkin — that means the oil was the right temperature
• Eat within 10 minutes of frying for the best experience

Mistakes to avoid

Oil too cold. If the oil is below 170°C the rolls absorb fat and become greasy. Test with a thermometer or a piece of bread.

Oil too hot. Above 185°C the pastry browns before the filling heats. Slower is better than faster.

Overfilling. Too much filling causes the rolls to split during frying. A tablespoon per roll is plenty.

Not sealing well. Brush the egg white generously on the closing point. A weak seal means the filling escapes into the oil.

Reheating in a microwave. The crisp pastry will go soggy. To reheat, use a 180°C oven for 4–5 minutes — though they're never as good as fresh.

Variations

• Spinach and feta. Add 100g of cooked, well-drained chopped spinach to the filling.
• Potato. A boiled potato, mashed with a little feta and herbs — vegetarian filling.
• Sucuk. Add 50g finely chopped sucuk for a meat version.
• Air-fryer. Brush the rolls with melted butter and air-fry at 200°C for 7–8 minutes. Less authentic but a healthier weeknight version.

How to serve

• A plate of 6–8 rolls per person as part of a meze spread
• A bowl of plain yogurt on the side for dipping
• A few wedges of lemon
• A glass of cold raki, if you drink — the traditional pairing

Sigara böreği is, by tradition, the third or fourth thing eaten at a long table — usually after the cold meze (haydari, ezme, muhammara) and before the grilled mains. Plan your meal accordingly.